Remember your gorgeous succulent containers from last summer? Did you take the time to bring in and care for all those tender
plants over the winter? And, now, do they look overgrown and leggy, or a little scruffy to say the least? You have company…mine do too! Here are some suggestions on what to do to give these babies a new lease on life.
Give your succulents some fresh soil!
First, give your succulents some fresh soil for new roots to grab into. Remember to use a sharp draining mix formulated for succulents…a basic everyday potting soil will stay too moist. Loosen up the roots, and shake off some of the old soil. Remove any old browning leaves that still cling to the lower stem. Repot in the same pot or a pot that is slightly larger.
If you are rehabbing a large container of mixed succulents that were part of an ensemble and want to give it new life, unplant everything and do the same thing. You can top dress the soil with a fine gravel, chicken grit or uncolored aquarium sand, which will prevent low lying foliage from staying in constant contact with moist soil.
Rosette forming succulents often elongate during short winter days and low indoor light, or they may just be prone to doing so anyway, with age. You might like to have the height that tall gangly stem offers, and if so, just leave the plant be. On the other hand you may want to offset the top heaviness. There are a couple of options.
Aeonium with aerial roots….
Option 1: Bury Her. Notice that a lot of bracing aerial roots have developed along the stem of this Aeonium ‘Cyclops’. Last year I tried this unorthodox remedy. I found a deep clay container and replanted the Aeonium low in the pot. Succulent soil mix was used in the lower half, but then I topped the upper pot portion with perlite. This allowed good aeration for new roots to develop off the main stem.
Option 2: Off with her head! This may cause you to hesitate, but you will have to cut off the Aeonium’s top rosette, (you can then root the rosette to form a new plant). The stalk will hopefully break anew with fresh growth and branch out, but I should warn you this takes a while to happen. As for that top rosette, let the cut edge air dry for a few days to “heel” or callous over. Then fill an appropriate sized pot with perlite or a mix of perlite and sand, insert the cut end of the rosette into the pot and water frequently.
Echeveria with elongated stem
These methods work for elongated Echeveria too. Repot in a tall tom, or cut off the top rosette and try rooting it. Note: You may or may not be able to encourage side rosettes off that main stalk (depends on what type of Echeveria hybrid it is), but hopefully your rosette will root in to form a new plant.
Echeveria ‘Fleur Blanc’
Many succulents bloom in late winter and early spring, and these blooms are quite lovely, as seen above in Echeveria ‘Fleur Blanc’. The blooms often help identify plants that you may have acquired without a proper name.
Look-alikes. x Sedeveria ‘Letitia’ on the left, and ‘Sleepy’ on the right.
For example, these two very similar x Sedeveria are often mixed up in the nursery trade. When not in bloom they do look quite alike. Now in flower, I can tell that the one on the left is Sedeveria ‘Letitia’ (pale yellow/white) and on the right is Sedeveria ‘Sleepy’ (orange/yellow). Also, notice some plants like these Sedeveria have offsets forming at their base. These offsets can be severed and rooted or potted in small pots if roots have already formed.
Cuttings left to heel, decayed foliage must go, leaves sometimes root too!
- Cut back leggy growth.
- Let cuttings air dry for a few days to seal the cut ends.
- Lie or stick in a sand/perlite rooting media.
- Groom aging and decaying foliage.
- Repot all plants in fresh succulent potting soil to give them a new lease on life.
- Top dress newly potted succulents with fine gravel, aquarium stone, or chicken grit
- Note (and photograph if you can) what the flowers look like on your plants to confirm their identity.
With longer days and fresh soil, your repotted succulents will show you how happy they are in 4-6 weeks. Once the weather warms, transition plants outdoors on mild days, first in a spot which has just morning sun, and then gradually allow them full day light. Too much strong sunlight on a warm day after plants have been indoors may cause the leaves to get sunburned.
For other posts on Spring Care of Succulents see:
In bloom: Tender Succulents
Rehabbing Succulent Containers